Day Two: 3:56 AM

Paris 040712 08Day two began altogether too early.  Little Beau woke up at 3:56 completely awake and full of life.  Apparently he did not get the memo about the time change and proceeded to flick on and off light switches till we all surrendered to being awake.  Lisa went as far as showering and applying makeup while I dug in the trenches and tried to fight infant Satan with all my snoring powers.  Even Lisa joined Beau on the dark side insisting I shower at 4:23 and start the day.  Luckily by 5:34 Beau, Lisa and myself and fallen back into heavy slumber till 10 am.

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Day two re-began now at a more sensible hour with café crème, croissant and pain au chocolat.  We strolled along the Seine snapping shots and generally wandering kind of in search of a converter to restore electric power to our dying laptop.  Low and behold we ended up running into Jean Paul Hevin, a famous chocolate shop, for late morning Chocolate cigars and mille Feuille then into Pierre Herme’s simpler pastry shop for macaroons and drinking cocoa.  Yes Bacchus, gluttony has begun.  Somewhere past the Louvre we hopped in a motorized rickshaw for a thrilling ride thru gay Paris to our lunch reservation at La Fermette Marbeuf, an unbelievable beautiful restaurant dating back to the late 1800’s that almost was destroyed in the 1970’s being saved by workmen who discovered the famous art nouveau stained glass below coats of paint and plaster.

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Lunch was amazing, edible trip back to my favorite period of cuisine (1870’s to 1930’s).  We started with a puree of mushrooms with crispy parmesan while deciding on our order.  I opted for a torchon of foie gras with fig compote while Lisa chose the season’s first white asparagus of the season from Nantes served with a poached egg and an amazing Hollandaise.  My foie gras slathered on pain grilles melted in my mouth.  Beaumont had a mini meltdown which allowed me to steal two plump spears of asparagus while Lisa took Beau outside the restaurant.   I admit I felt tinges of guilt during the episode.  Beau and Lisa returned and we continued with our lunch.  We drank a delicious Bordeaux, Le Clementine du Chateau Pape Clement 2004, that married well with my foie gras and both our main courses.

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Lisa continued with Magret de Canard, the steak like breast from a duck who gave it’s life in the service of foie gras production, served atop a pile of roasted fingerlings, carrots and haricots verts while I opted for the most tender and amazing milk fed veal dish I have ever eaten: escalopes de veau panée Viennoise.  Who knew how tender a baby veal could be snatched from it’s mother?  I had a cheese plate and Lisa had Crepes Suzette for dessert.

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After espresso’s we continued our pilgrimage for chocolate shops and all things designed to stretch our stomachs.  Walking thru Paris with a wine buzz is great.  We ended up at chocolat shop number three and Pierre Herme shop number two.  I am surprised they didn’t remember Lisa from our last trip through Paris as she bought 188 Euros worth of desserts in three minutes.  This time we escaped with only a 66 Euro bill.  I played with Beau by a famous fountain while she shopped for pastries.

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Fatigued and tired of walking miles and, excusez moi, kilometers and kilometers thru Paris’s ancient streets we hopped a cab and ended up back at the Hotel Agora.  Still saturated from lunch’s excesses we headed out for a Fruits de Mer platter in the Les Halles section of town…  one more bottle of wine and a big platter later we were in seafood comatose…

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The saga continues…

2 thoughts on “Day Two: 3:56 AM

    • The Art Nouveau period was one of great change and beauty… at least a beauty that speaks to me… Restaurants were born and modern eating started… Prior to that the restaurant world was very different… You could say it was the 60’s revolution of the 1800’s…

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